“Spain is a Third World Shithole”

I received the title text from my brother a few days ago and it got me thinking about the ins and outs of travel. He has to travel for work, which he extremely dislikes. A flight we were on as children essentially attempted to land in a hurricane, and instead was forced to make an emergency ascent straight up back into the air (*this can cause an explosion).

While it was a pivotal moment for me and the start to my thrill seeking young life, it was the beginning of my brother’s desire to play it safe; both of which we still do.  But it is not only the safety issue, and the annoyance of being crammed into a steel box literally like a can of sardines, but his desire to stick with the familiar that keeps him from enjoying some of the nuances of travel, and from becoming a Traveler.

And he is not alone. I’ve had multiple friends who think they deserve biscuits and gravy for breakfast every morning in England, can’t understand why no one has iced coffee in France, demands a working air conditioner and WiFi in Greece, and are uncomfortable with all the kissing and real live human contact in Spain.

Like feral children raised by wolves, to me they have missed some vital piece of social development that can never be  attained, because it cannot be appreciated later in life.  We just get used to being too comfortable.  They missed the garbage-bag-suitcases-stay-in-hostels-with-bedbugs-share-liters-of-Cruz Campo-in-a-park-in-Barcelona-with-homeless-people phase of life, and now they have no patience for the beautiful essence of travel; inconvenience.

My last few flights have been cancelled out of Nashville (FUCK YOU UNITED/AMERICAN AIRLINES), I’ve missed multiple flights in a day while at the airport in France, spent the night on a bus station floor in Spain, used a payphone that I’m pretty sure had been smeared with excrement at some time in New Mexico, dove for dumpster donuts in Philly, get chased by an 8 foot moray eel in Cozumel, lost my keys in a boat that was falling apart and filled with can lids and something horrible (this one I’ve actually blocked out) in Portugal, “reheated” pizza on top of a radiator in Prague, get sucked into a riot after the War in Iraq began (no a la guerra, ortro mundo es possible!), thrown up into a castle moat in Scotland, bleed all over the steps of Valle de Los Caidos because I didn’t have a tampon and toilet paper in Spain is more like tracing paper, and who knows how many stitches and tetanus shots are from someone who doesn’t speak the same language as me – but I’ll be damned if those aren’t the memories I can still smell, touch and feel they are so vivid.

I’ll take the blood and guts any day.

 

Headquarters

Oh. my. God. Besides being the most reasonable and down to earth coffee shop in Nashville, Headquarters has just blown my mind with their new ham and cheese croissants and spicy mocha.

Since I can’t take a good food picture to save my life, I’ve stolen theirs from their instagram. Usually only a slave to the power of suggestion with pizza, I was unable to resist the temptation to get anything other than what they posted several days ago.

Although they are known for their local honey latte, the spicy mocha blows it and any other coffee I’ve ever had out of the water -especially on a chilly morning.  The croissants are delicate and flaky, filled with savory ham and cheese with the perfect amount of grainy mustard.

My incredibly stressful Friday just got a little better thanks to James and Louisa at Headquarters!

Gaudí’s Barcelona: Gaudy or Gorgeous?

Everywhere Once

The facade of Gaudi’s La Sagrada Familia

Barcelona wouldn’t be as colorful without Antoni Gaudí. Hailed as a visionary by some and a madman by others, the innovative architect left his mark across the city, from lampposts in the Plaza Real–one of his earliest commissions–to his last, still-unfinished work, the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia.

Gaudí threw classic architectural rules out the window. At the forefront of the 19th-century Modernisme style, he drew inspiration from nature and organic forms. He combined vibrant colors, curved lines, and Moorish and Gothic elements with a healthy dose of creativity. Trees, flowers, fruit, and seashells fired his imagination and so did more dramatic images like dragons and skulls.

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10 Tapas to Try (Other Than Jamón) in Spain

As an American, I am dying to get my hands on the banned Jamón Ibérico (ham from black Iberian pigs that have been acorn fed) and Jamón Serrano (a dry, cured ham from the mountains) each time I visit Spain.

The thinly sliced ham is more than a cultural institution, it’s a way of life.  When you hold it up to the light, it’s as beautiful as looking through stained glass in the massive, imposing cathedral where you should be praying and hiding out from the inquisition. The jamón was a life saver of sorts at one time, as the one true way to prove your conversion was by eating pork…

BUT – there’s more to life than ham (probably).  Here are ten other tapas that are worthy of sharing the spotlight with jamón:

1. Aceitunas – Starting simply, aceitunas are olives.  Here in America, we are taught to praise Italy for their olive oil but little known fact is that most “Italian” olive oil comes from Spanish olives.  They are really the best in the world.  Many tapas bars will marinate them to be more savory, or stuff them with anchovies, as if they need more flavor.

2. Patatas Bravas – These fried potatoes are served differently at every bar you go to, but the one consistent thing is the spicy tomato based sauce covering the potatoes.  Spaniards love mayo, so it is not uncommon to also see these with a mixture of mayo and the spicy tomato sauce.

3. Pimientos de Padron – These peppers come from La Coruña and come skillet fried in oil.  Most are mild, but every once in a while you will find a spicy one.  It’s the best kind of gambling.

4. Chorizo – Spicy Spanish pork sausage that is usually pan fried in olive oil. The sausage itself is seasoned with smoked paprika and other herbs. It goes exceptionally well with a nice white wine, or vino blanco.

5. Queso Manchego – This is a sheep’s milk cheese that is firm and salty.  It has pretty serious regional restrictions, and only cheese made inside certain areas in La Mancha can be called Manchego.  Often, you will find it sliced, soaking in olive oil.  It will then be served on top of a slice of bread.

6. Tortilla – This is my absolute favorite and the only similarity it shares with a Mexian tortilla is that both are round.  Tortilla Española is made with first drenching potatoes in oil and frying them until they are soft.  Once the potatoes are soft, eggs are added and then flipped to make a frittata or quiche-like “pie.” It often also contains heavy amounts of onions and garlic and often even last night’s leftover vegetables.

7. Croquetas – Ask an Expat Spaniard what they miss most about home and 100% of them will mention food.  Some will say jamón, others will say tortilla, but most will say croquetas.  Croquetas are quite time consuming to make, which is why indulging on them at the bar is perfect.  They are made with a bechamel-like filling that is refrigerated and then breaded, mixed with jamón and then fried.  The result are little pockets of heaven.

8. Bacalao – cold, breaded cod served on bread.  I grew up land-locked and still don’t really trust fish.  Bacalao however, isn’t fishy and even at the diviest tapas bar, it will be fresh.  I only wish I could have more of it.

9. Albondigas – Meatballs.  As nontraditional as meatballs sound for Spanish cuisine, they have actually quite a history.  Spain was conquered for around 700 years by the Moors from Africa, and with them, they brought many new foods and additions to the old Spanish language. Al-bunduq (literally hazlenut, then used for things that are round) were spiced meatballs thought to be of Berber origin, then introduced to Spain during occupation.  They are typically soaking in a tomato sauce, and then served with a piece of bread as tapas.

10.  Boquerones – Anchovies.  I personally do not care for anchovies but the Spanish are wild for them.  You will see them everywhere, and tapas bars are the best place to try them out.  These are not your typical American grocery store tin of anchovies. These are larger, and always fresh.  They come fried and served with bread.

 

 

Between Heaven and Hell

Waiting on a time traveling machine…

I don’t spend too much time wishing I could revisit any past, but I am making an exception in this case.  At the turn of the 20th century on the Boulevard de Chilchy (near the Moulin Rouge), there was an incredible Cabaret called, L’Enfer (meaning “hell).  You would enter through the mouth of the devil, essentially selling your soul for a coffee or perhaps something more ‘sinister.’

The decor is like the wet dream of every metal child (i.e. me) who grew up in the 90’s and worked diligently after school on their drip  candle altar to piss their parents off.  In a kind of ‘Melty-Baroque’ style, the facade, ceilings, bar and stage all swirl with devils and demons that  Hieronymus Bosch or Matthias Grunewald would have been proud of.

The wait staff dressed as satan and had shows featuring ‘devilish attractions, torment of the damned, round of the damned, the boiler, metamorphoses of the damned.’  Next door was it’s sister Cabaret ‘Le Ciel’ (heaven), but being that this was the red light district of Paris, it was admittedly less popular than it’s sexier, rebellious brother.

 

 

Nothing Fancy – Part 3

My mood is entirely weather-based, and today’s gloom in Nashville started my day off worse than waking up on the wrong side of the bed.  I had to take action, and luckily, Yeast Nashville bakery is on my way into work.   They have changing daily specials that always includes some sort of amazing egg casserole, soup and baked goods, but the stars of the show are their kolaches.

Never had a kolache?  Like the mighty armadillo, kolaches have made their way up to Tennessee by way of Texas and now there’s no turning back.  Although kolaches are traditionally Czech and Polish pastries, most Americans know them from the world famous Czech Stop, in West, Texas.  They can have a savory filling or are topped with sweetened cream cheese, fruit and/nuts.

Your mission, should you chose to accept it, is to:

1. BUY ROOSTER BREAD NOW FOR LATER.  They always, always, always sell out before the end of the day.  What is rooster bread you ask?  Why, it is only the finest sriacha and cheese blend loaf of bread this side of the Cumberland.

2.  Start with the classics.  While (seriously) everything Yeast Nashville makes turns to gold, the kolaches really are the best.  Try the jalapeno/sausage/cheese kolache to spice up your morning.

Also, as if you needed more of an incentive, they have incredible coffee. They serve Drews Brews which is pretty much the only coffee shop coffee that doesn’t either taste burned or like cigarettes.  And it’s local. Boom.

 

 

“Nothing Fancy” Series – Part 2

The next person who tells you they eat McDonald’s all the time because, “It’s so cheap,” tell them to eat more tacos!

Tacos should be simple – small corn tortillas, filled with meat and topped with onions and cilantro.  No exceptions.  However, to determine who has the “best” tacos, one should look to the sauce in my humble opinion.  A place has a bottle of Tabasco for your tacos?  “Getthefuggouttaheya,” or of course the Southern equivalent is, “Oh honey, bless your heart.”  Give me unlabeled containers of creamy green and dark reds with visible chili peppers in it, I’ll love you forever.

I’ve described the tacos at El Tapatio (4801 Nolensville Pike, Nashville, TN 37211 – next to Whitt’s BBQ) as, “So good I forgot to look at my phone,” which, in these modern times, is really saying a lot.  But the sauce, the sauce!  For $4.90 I got two spicy pork tacos, one shrimp, pickled carrots, radishes, a green sauce and a red sauce.

I have no idea what’s in the sauce, but I can tell you that it’s homemade, spicy as hell, and is better than anything else you’ll find on Nolensville Road. ¡Yo Quiero El Tapatio!

The word of the day is…

When English is lacking in a word to describe something, thank god we have German to pick up that slack.

What are some of your favorite words to describe something that has no direct English equivalent?

“Nothing Fancy” Series – Part 1

Some of the tastiest food in Nashville can be yours for five dollars or less.  In part one of my “Nothing Fancy” series,  I ventured out to Reina la Bendición, “The Queen’s Blessing,”  on 330 Timmons Street, just up from the Nolensville Pike/Thompson Lane intersection if you’re heading away from downtown.

Reina specializes in El Salvadorean food, and for those in the know, that means pupusas.  Pupusas are made from masa flour that has been stuffed with beans, cheese, pumpkin flower, meats, etc. and grilled to crispy perfection.  I asked for two bean and cheese pupusas and sat back to watch their tiny, busy kitchen as they hand made all of the food to order.

While their menu is fairly small (and entirely in Spanish), it makes up for it in big flavors.  Pupusas traditionally come with a cabbage slaw, and Reina’s is the best I’ve ever had.  It’s fresh, with hints of lime and spice to it.  Pupusas are a humble $2.25 each and come with a massive portion of (the best ever) slaw and hot sauce. Add a side of yuca frita (fried yuca) and nothing can ruin your day!

Come back next Friday for more in the  “Nothing Fancy” series to get the beat on what to eat, cheap!

 

 

Top 7 Free (Tested and Verified) Travel Apps for 2014

I have used the following free apps in the U.S. and internationally and have truly found them indispensable.  As long as you have a data plan or are on wifi, you can access these apps without a problem (many international cities have free wifi hotspots in parks, and you can always get free wifi at McDonald’s if you’re in a pinch).

Pro-Tip: If you think you will not have wifi or data service, make sure to take a picture or screenshot on your phone while you have wifi so you can reference the map offline later.

1.  Google Maps – I know this may seem obvious, but after going in and out of service on back roads in Boone, NC to finding that perfect Christmas market in Prague, I have found that I really can rely on Google Maps.  It not only has visual maps but you can also plug in your headphones and hear step by step walking, bike and transit directions.

2.  Hop Stop – While Google Maps is great, Hop Stop is essential if you will be using major public transportation.  Not only does it have excellent transit directions in most major U.S. cities, but it also works internationally in Paris, Montreal, Sydney, Moscow, Berlin, Jerusalem and more.  With this app you can pre- set how many transfers are acceptable (like when choosing a flight), if you want bus only, metro only or a combination of both, and you can be sure that you are getting the best directions in English.  Like Google Maps, it offers step by step instructions, but also shows maps in chunks of directions so you can focus on one part at a time.

3.  WeChat – If you’ve traveled overseas and are good at making friends, you will soon realize that you need some way to communicate with people in the town.  If you are on a tight budget, this can be difficult because turning on your cell phone data can rack up astronomical charges.

WeChat is an instant messaging app that supports languages in English, Spanish, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese, Korean, Polish, Russian, Italian, Hindi and Turkish.  It is the 5th most used app in the world so many of your new friends may already have the app on their phones.  There is a setting where you can ping people close to you in distance so it is easy to find people without remembering your 10,000th user name.

*Pro-tip: You should know that as long as you and the other person you are communicating with have iPhones and wifi, then you can send each other iMessages.  I have found that especially in Central and Eastern Europe, people do not have quite the same cultish devotion to their iPhones as Americans so WeChat is a great way to keep in touch with local people without having to buy a phone card and use a payphone (So the year 2000).

4.  WC Finder –  I’m pretty sure it’s common knowledge that Starbucks is “the bathroom of New York,” but what about everywhere else?  When Nature calls and you are traveling, you need this app.  It is user supported so all of the bathrooms have been used by travelers like yourself or people with insider knowledge of the town.  There is also another cool option where you can download maps of Paris and London for offline access when you don’t have wifi.  You can also view details and reviews of the bathrooms, such as price/free or dirty/clean.

5.  Global Tipping – Have you ever heard that it’s rude to tip in Japan?  Or that it’s ok to just leave small change in Paris?  These things and more you can find in the Global Tipping app.  It does not calculate it for you,  but it does have some incredibly useful notes on customs, and details on where you do/do not tip (Salon, Waiter, Cab Driver, etc.).  While they have many countries around the world, they are not in alphabetical order so you may have to hunt for the place you are looking for.

6.  XE Currency – Bad at Math? Me too.  As long as I have the XE Currency App, which is updated constantly with new currency equivalents (which can often change daily), then I can be more confident in going to markets, especially when haggling is the custom.

7.  Google Translate – I use this all the time in my daily life even.  Sometimes I just get curious about what a word would be in another language or I forget a word I used to know in a foreign language so I look it up.  You can speak or type and convert to/from any language.  It will also repeat the translated version back to you so if you’re really in a bind and no one speaks English they can talk and you can use this app to translate back and forth.

Sensuous Steel

The Frist Center for the Arts is the only museum I have ever been to without a permanent collection. This has been a point of contention for me, especially when Tennessee State University sold their collection of Georgia O’Keeffe paintings several years back and the paintings left the State instead of being purchased by The Frist.

But then they opened the “Sensuous Steel’ exhibit and maybe I’m starting to change my mind. Being able to wipe out the museum to make room for literally anything is rare, and one of the reasons that Nashville has on exhibit some of the most unique art deco cars ever made; housed inside 1930’s Art Deco Frist Center building. I mean, the whole thing is like a scene out of Gatsby. Or Batman.

The exhibit consisted of 18 cars and motorcycles, most limited editions (like one of three made) and all significant. They are a celebration of beauty, an echo of an America where Detroit and booze brought the Country alive, a story of handmade craftsmanship, lost in sea of mass production.

And tragic in the end.

Wilson County Fair

A haiku to immortalize the end of summer:

Monkeys riding dogs

Screams from the blurry, neon lights

Deep fried snickers bars

The Wilson County Fair (thirty miles outside Nashville) wins awards each year for being one of the best fairs in the Country.  If the Texas State Fair is THE State Fair, then the Wilson County Fair is THE fair.

Just some of my favorite things are the pig races (where some lucky lady will get herself declared “Pig Queen” for the winning pig – I’m Miss Piggy 2008), chocolate covered bacon on a stick, prize winning biscuits, blue ribbon chickens, outrageously large gourds and pumpkins, Fiddler’s Grove Historical Village (complete with a spectacular dioramas of a funeral and jail), bluegrass bands, rodeos, and a tractor pull.

It’s the perfect outdoor adventure for every honky tonk angel…

Alice Cooper’s Place

Blue-dle

Cotton Candy

Deep fried snickers

The Gallinippers old time music

This is part of the funeral home diorama. The embalming table is directly to the right

Creepy diorama

Pig Race!

Monkeys Before Mounting Dogs

The Cumberland Plateau

Few places make me feel settled.  As someone with a bit of a wanderlust addiction, it’s hard for me to stop moving because there’s always something else out there, something else to experience.  One place that calms the wanderer in me is Cummins Falls, near Cookeville, TN.  It used to be private property with a series of ropes tied to trees that you had to hold onto if you wanted to live.  Well, some didn’t and the property owners gave the land to the State, where in 2012 it opened as a State Park.  It no longer has the ropes and you don’t have to use a pulley system to get your cooler down but it is still just as beautiful as the first time I saw it summers ago.

I remember you well in the Chelsea Hotel

The place really should have been a museum.  A dedication to the poetry, music, art, film, drugs and gonorrhea of New York in the 60’s and 70’s; yet here it sits, closed off from the people it matters most to and a mystery brick skeleton to those who came too late.

In 2010 Patti Smith spoke at Cooper Union and Vanishing New York covered it.  She is quoted as saying, “New York has closed itself off to the young and the struggling. But there are other cities. Detroit. Poughkeepsie… New York City has been taken away from you… So my advice is: Find a new city.” And I’m pretty sure we should have listened.  In less than two years gone is the Mars Bar, Duffs when it was by the River and awesome, the original Coney Island Arcade, Shoot the Freak, Cha-cha’s, and Chelsea Hotel like CBGB, Max’s Kansas City, Coney Island High, etc. before them.

But ain’t that New York?  A town of wildly rich people towering above starving peasants across the moat in Brooklyn.  They take more and more land away for their ten dollar sandwich shops that fortify the walls of their castles in the sky.

I was lucky enough to spend a less than classy evening in the Hotel before it closed in 2011 with three of my girlfriends.  It ends as to be expected.

R.I.P.

Staircase from the 6th floor

Some of the Art Hanging in the Hotel

Staircase Detail

Some of the Art Hanging in the Hotel

Further down

Doors of Perception

Sid Vicious Art

Some of the Art Hanging in the Hotel

Room 100 where Sid Vicious was killed

Here for the Party

Lion Bridge at Night

Lion Bridge, Budapest

Monument Monday- John Lennon Peace Wall

Prague was liberated from the Iron Curtain only in 1989.  It was never destroyed in any wars so along with an almost perfectly preserved town, you also have newer monuments to the suffering that the people endured being first under control of the Nazis, then under the Russians.

One such monument is called the John Lennon Peace Wall, although John Lennon never visited the site.  When John Lennon was murdered in 1980, he became a hero and a symbol for the youth in Prague.  They formed a movement referred to as “Lennonism” that paved the way for dissent and reformist attitudes that eventually lead to the Velvet Revolution and violent protests in 1989.

Since the 1980’s, people in Prague have been writing anti-fascist graffiti, Beatle’s lyrics, and painting portraits on the wall that is an ever-changing example of modern struggle.

“We photograph things in order to drive them out of our minds.” Kafka

Ask anyone who is the most recognizable author in Prague, and many will surely answer Franz Kafka.  Kafka, from a wealthy German-speaking Jewish Family, was raised in Prague; the city which he is quoted as saying, “Prague never lets you go… this dear little mother has sharp claws.”

Prague made him, owned him, and one is never quite sure when walking through the streets if Kafka was the surrealist, or if it is just Prague.  I mean, Prague is Kafkaesque, but really, there is no Kafka without Prague.

I visited the Kafka museum in December and had very little expectations because how much can you do with a museum about an author, right?  I mean, people go see Hemingway’s home, but you’re really just paying to keep some six toed cats alive.  But this, this was something entirely different.  This museum is truly Art divided into two parts: Existential Space and Imaginary Topography and is heavy on audio-visual stimulation.

In Existential Space, you see what shapes young Kafka, and what in turn drives him into despair   You walk in and the first thing I heard was a loud cat meow. WTF?  Then what sounds like a car crash, a pop sound, and then somewhere louder in the distance, guiding you toward it is strange, what I can only describe as “absinthy,” music.  You follow and you are struck with a screen that morphs landscapes from the city around you as you look at pictures of the town, it’s people and Kafka’s relations.

Keep following hypnotically on to a striking display of the women in Kafka’s life; their transparent images containing the last of their worldly possessions.  He never married.

You learn about him becoming a lawyer then having a successful, but miserable career in Insurance.  Slowly and physically, you begin to spiral into madness with him; all the while following the light and music.

 

 

 

Next you are hit with the oppressive labyrinth of floor to ceiling filing cabinets.  Before it, a looped video of drawings Kafka made of a man at his desk; afflicted. And you begin to feel it too, because you know the sentiment.  Trapped in a cage, making money for some asshole.  Devastating.

We transition sometimes simultaneously into Imaginary Topography as landmarks in Prague melt away and become allegorical place.  He wrote, “We photograph things in order to drive them out of our minds.  My stories are a way of shutting my eyes.”  He was tortured by writing and not writing all at once, and it is no different for many of us today.

The museum ends with an installation that starts with a bright white light and ends with a man trudging along.  It is so simply beautiful that I watched it several times.

 

Like the book you at first can’t put down, only to wait a month to read the last chapter; I never wanted it to end.

 

Eating Cheap at European Winter Markets

I’m a pretty annoying eater apparently.  I eat slowly, in really small amounts, and I can never finish my food unless it’s a fancy restaurant with tiny portions and weird sauces.  I am also pretty cheap so needless to say, especially when solo-traveling, I rarely eat ‘meals.’

Instead, I prefer to travel to Eastern Europe during the winter months for authentic, regional street food sold at Holiday markets.  For under three dollars a meal, you are guaranteed to get some portable, filling, and tasty fuel to keep you warm and on the go

Pro-tip:  Many markets close after New Year’s Day but Prague’s Christmas markets, for example, are open until January 13th.  Do your research so you won’t be disappointed.  

Below are my top six favorite things to eat (and drink) from European Holiday markets:

1.  Grilled or ‘fried’ cheese (Prague)- either Edam or Hermelin cheese that is lightly breaded, then either fried or grilled.  They put the salty, oozy cheese on a slice of rye bread and you can choose to top it with a dark berry marmalade.  WOA. BEST FOOD EVER.

2.  Liquid lunch (Europe)- All around the world, no matter the city, you will see vats of mulled wine (hot, spiced wine) that is sold for take-away so you can browse the Christmas markets.

Pro-tip: If you are in Budapest, you will notice there is very little plastic waste unlike the rest of Europe or in America.  At Holiday markets there, you buy hot wine and put a separate deposit down on the ceramic mug that they put your wine in.  You are free to either keep the mug and leave the deposit, or return the mug and get your deposit back.  

3.  Langos (Budapest)- Also referred to as Hungarian Pizza, this delectable treat is always fried potato dough, covered with sour cream and cheese, then up to you (or the region) as to what else you can add.  Try it with garlic sauce, onions and mushrooms.

Pro-Tip- for the BEST langos in Budapest, you don’t have to wait for winter.  You can get it all year round at the central market upstairs.  This is where you will get the freshest langos with more options for toppings than you can get at Christmas markets.  You will also see this in other countries throughout Europe, but it is authentically Hungarian (and better there).  

4.  Grilled Sausage (Europe)- Grilled sausage is just about the best lunch you can get.  It comes crackling off the grill and is placed on a large bun, where you can fill it with sauerkraut and mustard.  Seriously good, seriously cheap.

5.  ‘Chimney Cakes’ (Transylvanian Origin) – These are popular in Eastern Europe where the dough is rolled in cinnamon and sugar, wrapped around iron rods and placed over hot coals to cook.  They are a great breakfast snack; like a superior cinnamon toast.

6. Medovina (Central and Eastern Europe)- Medovina is mead, or fermented honey.  If you remember your Old English Epics, you will recall that Beowulf and his retinue drank heaps of mead at Herot.  It’s not great (it’s REALLY sweet), but it’s fun to drink and think about when men were warriors.

Warm wishes in the New Year

Thanks to everyone who is following or stopped by to check out my journeys this year.

More to come in 2013 but in the meantime, check out my other food blog for recipes to your health and wealth in the New Year here

Have a great one!

Monument Monday: Proudy

Controversial Czech sculptor, David Černý’s bizarre presence can be felt all over Prague, but one piece is my favorite.  It is called simply ‘Proudy’ in Czech, or ‘currents’ in English, and features two men peeing in a fountain just outside of the Kafka Museum.

If your geography is as good as every other Americans I know, you will not notice that they are peeing into a pool that is the shape of Czech Republic.  You will also not notice that they are ‘writing’ famous literary quotes of dissent but now you know!

Pro-Tip:  You too can be a part of such art by texting +420 724 370 770 and they will ‘write’ what you text.

Warming up with Spirits in the Czech Republic: A Top Five Countdown

Many European cities require more from the common traveler to get the whole Experience with the requisite visiting of street vendors, participating in cafe ‘culture’, or spending a night’s stay in a hostel on a ‘good’ meal, but it’s different in Prague. Prague is for the drinkers.

Below is a countdown of my MUST try drinks for any visitor that wants to get to know Bohemia.  Fuck coffee.

5.  Svarek (hot wine)- This delightful drink is available during the cold months by many vendors for take-away.  It is especially omnipresent at the Christmas markets during December.  Do yourself a favor and grab a to-go cup of hot wine and sit down in the Old Town Square to people watch while you enjoy your wine.

4.  Pivo (beer)- DUH.  The Czech Republic is known for beer like Kentucky is known for Bourbon.  The first known brewery dates to the year 1118 and the hops grown there to make the beer have been exported since the 12th century.  The most famous beers are Pilsner Urquell and Budweiser Budvar, but one interesting beer to try is in the Castle District at Saint Norbert’s Brewery in operation since the 17th Century (look for signs that say Strahovský klášter, or in English Strahov Monastery).

The monastery is the only place that you can try Saint Norbert’s beer and with no Pilsner option, it is different than other breweries you find get in Prague.  The beer is seasonal so in winter time they have a strong dark beer that actually feels like Christmas.  During the summer months they offer a lighter, refreshing beer.

3.  Becherovka– One thing you will notice is that Czech people often talk of ‘herbs’ and when they buy you a drink they will most often give you Becherovka.  The recipe is the best kept secret in Central Europe and since no one has a damn clue what is in it, they swear it’s good for your health even though it’s strong enough to knock down a door.  I happen to LOVE it, so even though you will have no choice, try it!

2.  Slivovice- If you’ve ever had moonshine, this is pretty close to that.  A liquor that is made from plums, it is certainly a Czech national treasure.  They also have less ‘offensive’ versions with pear and apricot.

Pro-Tip: In the last few months the government placed a temporary prohibition on production of alcohol over 20% due to a rash of fatal methanol poisonings.  The prohibition is over, but the Czech Republic still does not require a license to brew these liquors.  If you are going to buy any of the liquors (beer and wine are ok) make sure that you buy them from a grocery store or other reputable place and DOUBLE CHECK to ensure the seal has not already been broken.  If the seal has been broken, do not purchase the alcohol. 

And now for my number one choice of best booze in Czech Republic…

1. Citrus Fernet– If you are a drinker, and I imagine you are if you’re still with me, I bet you have had Fernet: Jagermeister’s classier sister that doesn’t make you throw things.  This classic Czech drink unbeknownst to me also comes in a citrus flavor that is fantastic.  Buy one for all of your new friends and cheers to enjoying life in Prague.

The Many Signatures of Dali

I recently visited the Dali Exhibition in Prague and was struck by how many times his signature changed throughout the years. Just another piece to love of the Surrealist puzzle.

My 5 Favorite Slices in New York (and one in New Jersey)

I know, I know. Everyone knows the best pizza in New York is Grimaldi’s, right? Please. I’m talking slices, not sit down. Slices that you can grab and go and not have to wait an hour for. They may not be the best, but they are my favorites.

1. Artichoke Basille’s Pizza– Artichoke slice: They have only a few different slices to choose from, but the star of the show is the Artichoke slice. It is a huge, thick slice slathered with hot artichoke dip for sauce and covered in fresh mozzarella, baked to a bubbling, golden brown.

I wish I was banished to a deserted island so I could choose this as the only thing I eat for the rest of my life. $4 is totally worth the price (14th Street between 1st and 2nd Aves (212) 228-2004).

2. Pizza Gruppo Truffle pizza: If you want the truffle pizza but don’t want to sit in a restaurant, go to Gruppo. Grab some truffle slices and head down to my favorite loner haunt Mona’s, an interesting Irish bar down the street. Trust me, you’ll love it. Gruppo has the thinnest crust I’ve seen in NY, which is saying something. (Gruppo- 186 Ave B (212) 995-2100, Mona’s 14th and B)

3 Certe Pizza– Saw-seech slice: I used to have to work in Midtown Manhattan, known as lunchtime wasteland. This place, NY’s first official ‘green’ pizzeria, was the best thing that opened up in that neighborhood, and still is to my knowledge as far. I go back every time i’m in Manhattan for the saw-seech slice, a little spicy with crumbled chicken sausage, rappini, and red peppers. They also have amazing infused garlic or pepper olive oils to dip your crusts into! (132 East 56th Street, (212) 813-2020)

4. Driggs Pizza Grandma slice: directly off the Bedford L there’s a whole lot of haircuts and expensive hip places, but if you exit off the Driggs side instead of Bedford and turn the corner, you will see Driggs Pizza, that has been in the neighborhood since 1968, which is quite a long time for ever-changing Williamsburg.

They have the best for your worst hangovers, and my favorite is the Grandma slice. It is pesto, red sauce and fresh cheese that is simple, and cheap. Don’t forget to get a few pepperoni bites for the road. (558 Driggs (718) 782-4826)

5. La Bella Mariella: This place has changed names a couple of times, but the menu stays the same. People either love or hate this one but I think that’s because they haven’t ordered the Vodka slice. The pizza is a perfect NY thin crust with tangy vodka sauce and cheese. I LOVE this slice and it’s super convenient if you are going to see a show at the Knitting Factory. (374 Metropolitan (718) 963-2378)

*Disclaimer before I get death threats- Roberta’s is awesome too; just not in my top 5.

5.5. And for New Jersey, it’s Benny Tudino’s: If you are going to see a show at Maxwells, take the time to stop by this place for a plain slice- don’t get fancy. This one is my favorite plain slice, or “cheese slice” hands down. They have the best sauce I have ever tasted because it actually tastes like tomatoes and doesn’t have any sugar added to it. It is also ‘home of the largest slice.” (622 Washington Street, Hoboken, NJ (201) 792 – 4132)

Museum of Medieval Torture

I don’t know what I was thinking going here, I really don’t.  I mean, I can barely see the news or most new movies now without getting that panicky ill feeling in my gut and I just can’t watch.  Yet, there I stood.

Today I did not have anything really planned because it is the coldest day of my trip in Prague (low of 18 degrees) so I was taking a leisurely stroll across the Charles Bridge right before dusk.

I got to the other side and noticed the Medieval Torture Museum was right there.  I must have thought it would be cheesy, I actually was hoping for some really ridiculous dioramas that talked or something but it was ONLY instruments of torture with old illustrations of the devices in action.

It’s a pretty lousy museum for many reasons but for the price of 150 ck (around $7.75), you too can be truly horrified at how terrible human nature is.

Moulin Rouge

Memento Mori- My Morbid Paris

If you have been to Paris before, I am sure you’ve seen the Arc de Triomphe, visited the Louvre and Notre Dame, perhaps a tour of the Siene, and of course the Eiffel Tower but what do you do if you’ve seen all the things you’re supposed to see?

You do what you want, and I want to see cemeteries.

1.  Pere-Lachaise Cemetery ($ Free)-  Yes, this is the one with Jim Morrison’s grave, but it also has many more (around 70,000 dating from 1804) graves in total, and is the eternal resting place for other greats such as writers Oscar Wilde, Honore de Balzac, Jean-Baptiste Moliere, Marcel Proust, composer Frederic Chopin, painter Gustave Dore, and dancer Isadora Duncan.

Oscar Wilde’s grave you will notice now has a guard rail around it, then another plastic barrier protecting the actual grave.  This atrocity is because years ago, people could kiss the grave and leave lipstick marks behind.  It made for a decoration I think Oscar himself would have been fond of but it has since been stopped.  People still mark up the plastic covering with nail polish and lipstick; confessing their love for Wilde and outcasts everywhere.

The only other grave with a guard rail is that of Jim Morrison’s, which once had an armed guard looking after it so I guess activity there has calmed down.  People still jump the fence to leave their terrible seventh grade poetry and joints at his grave.  I would imagine that Oscar is rolling in laughter and Jim is face down at the torture of the grave side sing alongs alone.

Pro-tip:  There are many entrances to the cemetery, but only one that will give you a paper copy of the map to take with you (trust me, you need this).  The front entrance can be accessed from Metro stops Phillipe-Auguste or Pere-Lachaise.  If you come from Porte Gambetta, go ahead and walk straight all the way through to the front. 

2.  Montmartre Cemetery ($ Free)- While looking for something to make my less than thrilling trip the Moulin Rouge worth it, I found this ‘little’ gem.  It is sometimes referred to as the little Pere-Lachaise, with around 20,000 tombs dating from 1825.

It does not carry quite the star power as Pere-Lachaise, but does have a lot of legends, such as writer Emile Zola, Painter Edgar Degas, singer Dalida, surrealist painter Victor Brauner, writer Alexandre Dumas, clown Annie Fratellini, and my favorite German poet Heinrich Heine.

This cemetery is especially great if you’re into ‘ruin porn’ as it has not been kept up well and many graves have been broken or overrun by nature.

Pro-Tip:  Get a map when you enter from the guard station but it still might not help much.  This one is WAY more confusing than Pere-Lachaise so allow for about the same amount of time.  I was there for three hours, playing with cemetery cats and searching for Heinrich, whom I never did find. 

3.  Musee de Cluny, or the Medieval Museum (8.50 Euros with English audio guide)- I cannot say this enough, this is my favorite museum I have ever been to.  I am glad that it’s hard to find, and not one of ‘the’ places to see in Paris.  Let them have the Louvre, I’ll take this majestic time warp.

You start with a room of relics, and they have quite a few- WITH the bones and skulls still inside.  I have come to learn that a lot of museums have ‘relics,’ meaning the ornamental case or flask holding the relic, but not the actual relic.  I was beyond pleased to see an entire room of them.  I am not Catholic and did not even know about keeping ‘relics,’ also known as ‘body parts,’ of Saints until I lived in Spain and we had to go look at a finger in a wall (Avila).

I was unimpressed as I was sure it was symbolic but then I found out it was real and I’ve been obsessed since. Many of the relics in the collection are Croatian and are beautifully displayed.

There they also have a large room filled different types of medieval board games from around the world.  Of course, the pieces and games came from what was lying around or from the earth so many of the pieces are made of bone.  Here is one chess set made from bones where you can see where the marrow used to be.

 

Another fun way to pass the time if you were rich and bored was to toss knuckle bones into a cup with a small opening.  Weeeee!

Pro-tip:  This museum is dangerously close to Notre Dame so if you plan on eating after, you might want to head away from this part of town because all of the restaurants will be filled with the very Americans you came to France to get away from.  There are always reasonably priced Turkish kabobs or Indian buffet in case of emergency.

 

 

 

 

4.  The Catacombs (8 Euros plus 3 if you want an audio guide *recommended although there are signs in English, Spanish and French.  The audio just gives you much more information)- Let me begin with good luck getting in.

I had heard tales that the Catacombs are difficult to get into and that they close without warning, are only open some mornings, and organization never posts anything on their website, etc. but this didn’t even cross my mind as I set out to see them.  Unbeknownst to me at the time, they had been closed since the 27^th of November and just reopened yesterday at 10 am.  By the time I got out and ate lunch around one o’clock, they were closed again.  I wish I could get a government job in France…

On with the show- the Ossuary, or arrangement of bones, was created in 1780 underneath Paris’ then city limits in the now 14^th arrondissment.  The tunnels had been already excavated because it was initially an underground quarry, whose limestone rocks built many of the most famous buildings in Paris.

One thing I had never heard about (probably because no one can get in to the catacombs) is before you get to the ossuary, there are two sets of sculptures built by one of the quarrymen, Decure.  Decure had been held prisoner by the English in the Balearic Islands at one time and went about painstakingly recreating the fortress of Port-Mahon, in which he was imprisoned.  He died when the quarry collapsed.

You then wind down the labyrinthine corridors until you reach the ossuary, filled with more than six million Parisians.  The bones were thrown down a hole without regard to gender or age and stacked as best would fit.  Millions of bones, thousands of hollow eyes once walked the streets above you and laughed with their friends.

Some of the bones amongst the piles belong to tax evaders, revolutionary war victims, even  Alexandre Dumas, but where is not even a reasonable question.

Pro-Tip: CALL AHEAD.  Do not rely on the website as it is never updated with closures or hours.  Try to make a reservation if at all possible and get there at 10 am when they open (they are ALWAYS closed on Mondays).  Also, it’s a little wet and cold –READ- don’t wear heels.

5.  Pet Cemetery– this one is quite a hike and is probably only accessible if you have a) lots of time or b) a car at your disposal.  However, it is where Parisians have been burying their pets for years and there is even a rat section.  Awwww.

Monument Monday

While walking on Boulevard Henri IV toward Saint Germaine to the Musee Cluny (Medieval Musuem in Paris) I passed a sculpture that I kept thinking about for two blocks.  The New Yorker in me had somewhere to be, but the Southerner in me made me turn back; not actually having to be anywhere at any distinct time.

I was glad that I did because as I got closer, I could see the phrase, “L’homme aux semelles devant,” literally, “the man with soles before him” or actually, “the man with soles of wind.”  HIM.  I turned the corner to see the front; simply, ‘A. Rimbaud.’

Rimbaud was second wave adored by the Beat poets, third wave worshiped by the New York punk/poet scene in the sixties and seventies, who in turn has my generation as fourth wave devotees for love of them all.

He was described in his time by Victor Hugo as “the infant Shakespeare,” was Paul Verlaines lover, and wandered most of Europe by foot, hence the inscription on the statue.

A poem-

Morning of Drunkenness by Arthur Rimbaud, trans. John Ashberry, from Poetry (April 2011)

O my good! O my beautiful! Atrocious fanfare where I won’t stumble! enchanted rack whereon I am stretched! Hurrah for the amazing work and the marvelous body, for the first time! It began amid the laughter of children, it will end with it. This poison will remain in all our veins even when, as the trumpets turn back, we’ll be restored to the old discord. O let us now, we who are so deserving of these torments! let us fervently gather up that superhuman promise made to our created body and soul: that promise, that madness! Elegance, knowledge, violence! They promised us to bury the tree of good and evil in the shade, to banish tyrannical honesties, so that we might bring forth our very pure love. It began with a certain disgust and ended—since we weren’t able to grasp this eternity all at once—in a panicked rout of perfumes.
Laughter of children, discretion of slaves, austerity of virgins, horror in the faces and objects of today, may you be consecrated by the memory of that wake. It began in all loutishness, now it’s ending among angels of flame and ice.
Little eve of drunkenness, holy! were it only for the mask with which you gratified us. We affirm you, method! We don’t forget that yesterday you glorified each one of our ages. We have faith in the poison. We know how to give our whole lives every day.
Behold the time of the Assassins.

Top Five Holiday Things to do in Nashville

1.  A Country Christmas at the Gaylord Opryland Hotel- complete with World’s Largest Nativity and thousands of lights.  Park at Opry Mills mall next door and walk over to avoid a hefty parking fee at the hotel.  Otherwise, free.

The off the beaten path option (I’d recommend seeing both!) right next to the Opryland Hotel is Shadrack’s Christmas Wonderland at the RV park.  It is a drive-thru dancing light display with music and even Santa.  $2 per carload.  2572 Music Valley Drive, Nashville, TN.

2.  The Nutcracker at the Tennessee Performing Arts Center– December 9-23rd come see the Nashville Ballet and the Nashville Symphony beautifully perform this classic Christmas ballet.  From $35.  505 Deadrick Street, Nashville, TN.

Pro Tip:  Before the show, pop in to the Hermitage Hotel around the corner and go to the Oak Bar for an excellent cocktail and beautiful architecture.  The Oak Bar did not allow women for many years so make sure to take a peek at the opulent men’s bathroom (yes, even women).  231 6th Avenue North, Nashville, TN.

3.  Dickens Christmas in Franklin- Victorian street festival with period food and drink, horse drawn carriages, a Christmas market, your favorite Christmas Carol characters such as Ebineezer Scrooge and Tiny Tim, as well as a town sing a long at 4:30.  December 8-9, 10 am – 5 pm Saturday, 12 pm to 5 pm Sunday.  Free.  510 Columbia Avenue, Franklin, TN

4.  Chad Bernard’s Holiday Lights– one of the nation’s largest displays of lights AND it’s a drive-thru.  This is true Nashvegas glitz. $10 per car.  Eat more rhinestones baby!  791 E Old LaGuardo Rd., Lebanon, TN.

5.  Walk-thru Bethlehem– You may have heard that Nashville is Music city.  One thing that will also become abundantly clear when you visit is that Nashville loves it’s churches.  The walk thru Bethlehem at Woodmont Church has goats, sheep, etc. and is supposed to be a window into Ancient Israel.  You’ve got to see it to believe it folks. December 9th 1-7 only.  Free. 3601 Hillsboro Road, Nashville, TN.

Pro-Tip:  After, go for a drink at the Greenhouse down the street.  It’s a truly hidden Nashville gem literally in a greenhouse filled with plants.  2211 Bandywood Drive, Nashville, TN.  Mon-Sun 5 pm- 3 am.  

Monument Monday

My friends and I were driving to Chattanooga from a dive trip in Gulf Shores, AL last summer when we came across a sign for Fort Payne, AL, a town that sounded strangely familiar.  I requested that we get off the interstate at the next exit so I could Google why I wanted to go there and I realized it was because the country band hugely popular in the 80’s and 90’s, Alabama, have a monument there.

It’s not directly off the interstate so you have to wind through the town, which actually ended up being more interesting than the original purpose of our pit stop.  As you drive toward Union Park on Fourth Avenue, the town is eerily empty.  And not in an, everything’s closed on a Sunday kind of way, but in a real ghost town kind of way.

As my friend continued to drive, I continued to research and we found that Fort Payne in it’s prime was “Sock Capital of the World,” named so because of the many, and large sock manufacturing plants in the town.

In the late 1800’s iron and coal were discovered, prompting large amounts of Northerners to  move in to the area, building factories and modernizing the town with a beautiful theater,  opera house and train station.  Turns out there was not as much iron and coal in the area as expected and that is when the town turned toward manufacturing.  The first plant, W.B. Davis, opened in 1907 and is still standing as an antique mall.  Very few are still hanging on.

 

As many jobs are being outsourced and sent overseas, these American run, family owned factories are being forced to close their doors.  People are moving out in droves, leaving the peaceful main-street life for cities in search of work.  The whole town is a sad reminder, a kind of Southern Detroit, of the very real problems the middle class families continue to face in this country.

Top 10 Made in the South Gift Giving Guide

The very day after Thanksgiving I start to feel the pressure of Christmas.  The consumerism, the crowds, the aching feet, ack.  Our country is on the verge of an unemployment crisis and everyone’s going out buying cheap plastic crap to support who knows where.  Not my favorite idea.  That’s why I have put together a quick guide of some of my favorite Southern made gifts in case you’re feeling as snarky as I.

1. Imogene and Willie Limited Edition Tote Bags–  Super cool, reclaimed oil-cloth tote bags from Nashville’s top denim designers.  Made in Tennessee.
2. Lodge Cast Iron Cookware– a good pre-seasoned cast iron skillet will last you, and probably your children, a lifetime.  Made in Tennessee.
3. Yazoo Beer-  Dos Perros never disappoints.  Made in Tennessee.
4. Benton’s Bacon–  No fooling, this is the best bacon I have ever had.  It’s thick cut, hickory smoked perfection.  Made in Tennessee.
5. Santa’s Ale Beer Soap for Men– Need I say more?  Made in Florida.
6. Orbix Blown Glass Vases– This studio has beautiful hand blown glass vases, pitches, and bowls.  Made in Alabama.
7. Zkano Organic Cotton Socks– Family owned sock manufacturers with cute striped or plain socks to suit anyone’s tastes.  Made in Alabama.
8. Louisville Slugger– Even if you don’t play baseball, they’re always good to have behind a door…Made in Kentucky.
9. Blanton’s Single Barrel Bourbon– It’s a splurge but just right for the dad who has everything.  Made in Kentucky.
10. Uncorked Glass– Hand made wine bottle glasses.  Made in Georgia.

Foodie Friday

My friend Sarah sent me a recipe several years ago for a cheesy stuffed pumpkin that she described as the best thing she had ever made. You mixed Gruyere, scallions, chives, day old bread, heavy cream, loads of garlic, and spices into a 3-5 pound pumpkin and then bake for several hours.

And she was right; it was the best thing I had ever made until I found this variation on Homesick Texan’s blog that included bacon and best of all- chipotle peppers.  Not only is this one of the easiest recipes ever, it is absolutely perfect as a side for any Holiday meal.

This is becoming a staple at my family’s Thanksgiving meals and is so good, I can’t believe I am saying this, that it has even replaced the Southern staple of macaroni and cheese at our table.  It is highly adaptable for the picky eaters in your family as long as you keep the bread, cheese and cream in place (next time I’m trying it with poblano peppers as well) and a great way to add something seasonal and pretty to the spread.

So to you and yours – happy holidays and try this pumpkin!!

Best (and Cheapest) Day Drunk Adventure in Nashville

So you’re low on funds but still want to party and explore?  Or maybe your band is on tour and you only have the morning off in Nashville? This trip is perfect for you, and all conveniently located in Centennial Park so if you have the token wet blanket with you, they can lie in the grass while you go have fun.

While Memphis and Kansas City may be more famous for their barbecue, Nashville is still a pretty good contender.  Start with lunch at Hog Heaven, famous for it’s Kickin’ chicken white barbecue sauce.  Hog Heaven has been a Nashville staple for over 25 years, serving up pork, turkey, chicken, beef and ribs off their smoker that you can smell from across the street.  Try the pulled pork slathered in white sauce with a side of turnip greens for a taste of Nashville’s best.

Hog Heaven 115 27th Avenue North, Nashville, TN 37203 (615) 329-1234.  $3-12.00

Next, mosey next door to the best, and oldest, dive bar in Nashville, the Springwater Supper Club and Lounge.  Nashville legend has it that Al Capone would hang out here when he needed to lay low, and the tradition continues for anyone looking to escape the crowds and get a cold beer.  The bar is CASH ONLY and doesn’t have a liquor license but the $1.25 PBR until 8:00 pm and surly, but wonderful bartenders, make it worth it.

Springwater 115 27th Avenue North, Nashville, TN 37203.

Once your get a couple of beers in you, wander through Centennial Park over to the Parthenon.  The Parthenon was built in 1897 for Nashville’s Centennial Exposition.  Meant to only be temporary, the building was originally constructed of plaster and wood as a facade, then re-built in concrete.  It is now an historical museum for the Centennial, holds a small permanent art collection from James M. Cowan, and of course, Athena.

Did you know that Nashville is known as ‘The Athens of the South?’  Yeah, we don’t get it either since I’m pretty sure Athens (GA) is the Athens of the South but nevertheless, the Parthenon is a replica of the Parthenon in Athens, Greece, complete with a fully gilded 42 feet (13 m) Athena.

The Parthenon  2600 West End Avenue, Nashville, TN 37203  (615) 862-8431.  $6.00 for Adults.

Return to Springwater if you have time and see the cast of characters change as the day goes on.  Maybe you’ll even be lucky enough to meet Nashville legendary musician and serious weirdo, Dave Cloud.

Monument Monday

Cave Church Grotto, or Sziklakápolna in Budapest, Hungary

The cave church, Sziklakápolna, is located on Gellert Hill, next to the famous Gellert Bathhouse.  Parts of the grotto church have been discovered as the original home of St, Istivan (Stephen), a hermit monk who was widely known in the middle ages for healing the sick with the pristine thermal waters that flow under the streets of the cave, and feed into one of the most famous bathhouses in Budapest, the Gellert bathhouse.

The entrance to the church was built in 1926 and closed off during the communist regime until 1989.  However, the larger cave was formed in the Triassic period, and discovered only in 1913.  Legend is that the main entrance to the cave had been closed over time and one day a dog fell in the only, very small opening.  The people retrieved the dog and discovered the cave and former home of St. Istivan.  The whole of the cave has still not been explored, and interestingly, the deepest part of the cave is named “Hell.”

This is the view facing out of the Cave Church at the statue of St, Istivan holding a church and the beautiful Danube.

Foodie Friday

I’ve been wanting to try the Peppercheese sandwich at Pepperfire, a deep fried pepper jack cheese sandwich, for quite some time and today is the day!  The deep fried sandwich is fried a perfect golden brown with oozy, warm pepper jack cheese melted in between.  It was so good I didn’t even start to feel guilty until I got to the second half.

If you want to pull some Man Vs. Food level eating, try the cleverly dubbed Tenders Royale, the peppercheese topped with hot chicken (light mild, mild, medium, hot, x-hot, or xx-hot).  Everything is made to order so you’re actually getting fresh, fast food but if you’re in a hurry, you’ll definitely want to call ahead.

Pepperfire Hot Chicken 2821 Gallatin Pike, (East) Nashville, TN 37216.  (615) 582-4824

Day Trips from Nashville- Tiffany Lampshades

Last weekend I went to the Brooks Museum in Memphis, a three hour drive from Nashville.  Fall is a spectacular time for a quick road trip in Tennessee, with all the leaves changing it appears as if the whole world is glowing.

The Brooks Museum is located in Overton Park, an expansive 342 acre park nestled almost silently in busy Midtown Memphis.  I had gone specifically to see the traveling exhibit from the Neustadt Collection of Tiffany Glass permanently housed at the Queens Museum of Art.  Tiffany lampshades were hand manufactured between 1895 till about the mid-thirties under the inspiration of Louis Tiffany, a lover of nature.  Many of the lamps in the collection take their beauty from the natural world with flowers, feathers, and pastoral scenes.

The exhibit contains some of the more impressive works, such as a Dragonfly overhead lamp, wisteria library lamp, peacock lamp with base made for oil and more, but perhaps the most interesting part of the exhibit was a display showing how the lampshades were made.

The exhibit artfully showed the skill and detail it required from their factory workers to choose the proper colors of glass with two versions of the rose lamp; one well chosen with a green background, and one with flowers that ‘bleed’ into the background in a sea of pinks.  The artists had a template wooden bowl where after the glass was chosen, and wrapped in copper foil, they were put on the bowl in the correct place.

The Neustadt Collection runs until January 13, 2013 in Memphis and returns to the Queens Museum of Art in New York.  If you are close to either it would be well-worth seeing.

Top 5 Things to do in (and around) Cozumel, Mexico

1.       Diving

Cozumel has some of the world’s best reefs, and is ideal for new and experienced divers.  Inexperienced divers will enjoy having a dive master with the group who will help you with extra weights if you need it, or even take your photo.  Divers with more experience are given freer access to deep dives with high visibility, as well as cavern and wreck dives.

Some of my favorite dive spots are Punta Dalila, La Francesa, and the Cedral wall where you can see loads of fish, as well as sea turtles, octopus, moray eels, crabs, a nurse shark or two, sponges and beautifully colored corals.

In Cozumel, unlike other locations, you will normally have a dive master out with the group, no matter the skill level.  I would highly recommend ProDive Mexico as your outfitter.  They have several locations throughout the island and on the mainland (Playa del Carmen), have full gear rental you can trust and have a PADI 5 Star rating.

Pro Tip 1: If you are looking for a hotel with dive shop, the Allegro Cozumel is an excellent choice.  It has a ProDive Mexico shop right on the property, and the boat leaves from the hotel so you don’t waste time or money with taxis or other travel.  They offer trips but also full courses so you can get certified while you are there, or work on a specialty.

Pro Tip 2: Trips are offered daily to dive or snorkel with whale sharks, the largest fish in the world, from June through September.  You don’t want to miss this if you will be there during the summer months!

2.   Punta Sur

If you drive to the southernmost part of the island, you will reach a sign to visit Parque Punta Sur and Faro Celarain, which has the lighthouse and is a wildlife preserve.  You pay a suggested admission of around $10 USD, hours are between 9 am – 5 pm.

Pro Tip:  Bring bug spray and sunscreen with you everywhere you go.

The first stop you come to is the crocodile preserve on the right, with small ruins on your left.  The ruin is called Tumba del Caracol.  The crocodiles live in the brackish mangroves at Punta sur but you will not see them anywhere else.

When you continue towards the lighthouse, look to your left and notice sticks or paint stirrers in the sand.  If you are lucky enough to be there between April and September when the sea turtles lay their eggs and hatch, you will see lots of sticks where community activists have marked where the eggs are in the sand.  The area is heavily protected from poachers with good cause; thousands of sea turtles come ashore each year to lay their eggs.  Learn more here.

At the end of the island you will reach the lighthouse, established in 1908. There is a small maritime museum on the ground floor where you can read about past lighthouse keepers and see how they lived, then you ascend the 127 stairs to the top of the lighthouse where you climb in directly under the clamshell Fresnel lens.  Then you can climb out onto the balcony where you can see the staggering beauty of the clear ocean on one side, with the mangroves on the other.

 

3.       Cenotes

Cozumel and the mainland of Playa del Carmen are loaded with “cenotes,” or sinkholes.  Many of these cenotes are open to the public for swimming, snorkeling, and some even for diving.

Two must see cenotes on the mainland are Ik-Kil, close to Chichen Itza, and Cenote Ponderosa.  Ik-Kil is very large, with a depth of 85 feet.  A quick shower is required before descending the long staircase down and then you can run and jump in.  Ik-Kil is quite crowded due to its proximity to Chichen Itza, so for something more relaxed, check out Cenote Ponderosa, also known as The Garden of Eden cenote.  It looks like a dream lagoon, something only seen in movies and is sparsely populated.  It is not nearly as deep but has stalactites and stalagmites that you can swim through while snorkeling, and you can also set up a dive excursion.

Ik-Kil

Ponderosa

4.      Coba

While I absolutely recommend the trip to Chichen Itza, there are other, much less crowded ruins that are closer if you’re coming from Cozumel like Coba.  From Cozumel, anything you do on the mainland you must take the ferry.

Pro Tip: There are two ferry companies.  DO NOT buy a round trip ticket, even though it might save you a dollar or two, IF you want to control your return time to Cozumel.  Carefully review the timetable of your outgoing ferry before buying the round trip ticket or you might be stuck waiting hours for the last ferry at 10. 

Coba is a rather large ruin site situated around two lagoons.  Historians think Coba had around 50,000 people, making it one of the largest and most powerful civilizations in the Yucatan.  Coba is a series of sites, with a central temple that tourists where can climb to the top as well as a ball court.  When you arrive you will be accosted to take a pedicab to the central temple.

The walk is a little long (and hot, BRING WATER), but an integral part of the experience of Coba.  The white roads are ceremonial and along the way on your pilgrimage, you will notice the flora and fauna that the people relied on for every aspect of their lives.  One such example are the trees from which many of the buildings were painted.  If you apply water to the white park of the bark, the trees will change red, or blue or yellow.  In the picture below, you can see the yellow ‘paint’ created.

5.       Back away from the All-Inclusive meals

While it’s great to wake up and have all you can eat food, the meals are prepared for the general public.  Meaning, you will never have full-flavored meals in a resort due to dietary restrictions, and it’s unlikely you’ll be able to add anything but salt and pepper so what else can you do but EAT TACOS!

My favorite places on the island are below, in no real order:

• Coconuts– Unbelievable atmosphere.  This is a perfect restaurant to visit if you go to Punta Sur, as it is close by.  It is at one of the highest parts of the island so you sit almost at a beach front cliff.    There are dogs running around that are cared for by the restaurant that are fun to watch, and bonus points that they don’t beg for food- even though they will eat it.
• Los Otates– Pozole.  Some people like soup when it’s hot, and I am one of those people.  You will see many local people eating here, and in a town that does not eat out often, this means something.  Los Otates also has tacos that are nothing to scoff at.
• El Pique– Best Tacos.  Cheap eats, perfectly simple menu, and off the beaten path.
• Chilangos Taqueria– Best authentic Mexico city-style cuisine.  Huaraches, tamales, and quesadillas.  This late night spot is definitely off the beaten path so you may actually get to practice your Spanish in Mexico!  Delightful.

Don’t Work, See the World

I have seen a lot of people die.  It’s partially why I have an insatiable, Ovidian curse that prompts me to give up my job every so often for a life of leisure; if by leisure we mean  contracting ringworm in an Eastern European hostel or accidentally becoming involved in a post soccer riot in the streets of Madrid with hooligans armed with jamón legs.  But, these things illuminate my mind, and so by taking the old Mexican adage extremely seriously, “Work to live, not live to work,” I feel like I am doing those who have gone before me, before their time, some sort of service.  I am using my life like it’s a dirty whore, but I have no choice.  I. Can’t. Stop.

At least I couldn’t.  I was one month from moving back to Tennessee from NYC sitting in Ted Danson’s New York apartment staring intently above his mantle at a small photo that said, “Don’t work, see the world” with an anarchy sign below it.

I sat wondering why he had anarchist graffiti as the most prominent piece of art in his living room, but also pondered how much my life was about to change.

At the time I had been living in New York for some years and every intention of moving back to Tennessee temporarily but moving overseas as soon as feasibly possible but I got lost somewhere. I got comfortable, and I stopped living for a year.

I got a serious(ly selfish) boyfriend, thought about buying a home, kept a job I hated even though I was constantly creeped out by my boss, and other things that are completely unlike me.

It was summer, my 30th birthday, when I knew it all had to stop.  I was reading a travel magazine and it showed the current ceiling progress for the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.  I found the photo when I was last there and felt a growing rage at myself for how long I’ve been sitting around Nashville; stagnant, not watching anything but the grass grow.

The journey can finally resume now.

Punk as Fuck

Last night I went to see former Tennesseean Wayne White’s new documentary, Beauty is Embarrassing at Nashville’s Belcourt Theater.   He is best known to low brow weirdos like myself for his work with puppetry and voices in Pee Wee’s Playhouse:

And with the Art Basel set for his ‘offensive” and humorous word paintings set atop junk-store landscape paintings:

But for me, his influence started before either of those.

When I was young my parents moved us from Houston, TX to a farm going up the Cumberland Plateau in Tennessee.   My father had been sent away to a military academy no longer in place in the nearby town of Lebanon and I think they thought it would be better for my brother and I to grow up in the country to grow our own food and live simply.  We were only allowed to watch three television shows in our time out there; Marty Stauffer’s Wild America, Pee Wee’s Playhouse, and Mrs. Cabobble’s Caboose.

Mrs. Cabobble’s Caboose was a local Nashville program that was supposed to teach children music because they were pulling music programs away from most of the county schools.  She lived in this fantasy land that was by far more mysterious and almost dangerous than boring old Mr. Rogers, and I worshiped her at four years old.  I was unaware at the time that this was my first experience with Wayne White’s puppetry and set design, and seeing his film I realized he is, without question, the first and the greatest artistic influence in my life.

After the film Wayne White hosted a Question and Answer portion where he patiently waded through the “I’m a pretentious art student questions” to more serious professional artist curiosities of process and time management, but the driving force behind each answer was almost always the same; do what you were born to do.   He encouraged everyone to make time for what they love doing, and cautioned to do what you love because it will haunt you if you don’t.

He is not only an artist that I absolutely adore, but he was also the most inspiring speaker due to the simplicity of his answers and it made me think about the other times I’ve been taken off-guard by the honest beauty of an artist or performer and I can point to only one woman.

I saw Patti Smith two summers ago on Bastille Day at Castle Clinton in Battery City Park, which is now under water from Hurricane Sandy.  My best friend was working for the company that sponsored it and was able to get us VIP tickets.  I wasn’t expecting much other than her legendary presence but from the moment she got on stage she had me.  I wanted her to only look at me.  There was something wild about her nonchalance.  She is Mother to the world/Rocker/Woman all in one tiny body.  She covered Perfect Day, Gloria, and sang Rock ‘n Roll Nigger but dealt a crushing blow when she started the Jim Carroll Band’s “People who Died.”  She called out their names one by one, “These are the people who died, died,” and shouted ROBERT, JOEY, JIM, and so on.  After each chorus, another name until I burst into tears.

I had no idea how infectious her spirit could be.  She closed the show with the following advice, “Life is hard and will give you a lot of shit, but it’s all you’ve got.”  No one talked leaving the concert and I imagined that must be what people that like church get out of religion.

Upon leaving Wayne White’s documentary/Q&A I didn’t feel the heaviness that Patti Smith gave me, but just as impressive warmth.  She stuns with words, he stuns with the visual manifestations of his mind.  It’s not just art, it’s seeing inside a mad genius’ brain.  I arrived home with something he said playing over and over in my head, “ I’ve always depended on the negative reinforcement of others,” and thought, “Both of them are punk as fuck.”